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Resolved Oil cooler suggestions?

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curt-s

Supporting Member
2,436
1,166
Dec 21, 2008
Winnipeg, MB_Canada
Pretty quick question: looking for any suggestions for oil cooler, both in plate count and brand, from those that have experience. Application is a 2gb Talon behind where the driver side fog light used to be , so it will get plenty of airflow, attached to a early 90s Evo GVR4 OFH using -10AN connections

I'm not a brand snob and, quite frankly, I'm less trusting of the old tried-and-true names like Mishimoto.

Looking for something cost effective that won't bust a weld/brazed joint and puke my oil out.

Recently discovered Derale Cooling Products, came across a 19 plate that I thought should work at a reasonable price. https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/der-51910

Anybody have any other suggestions or sizing recommendations?
 
I run a B&M cooler and never had any issues. I'm not at home right now or I'd get you a picture and some size measurements Curt.
Hayden is another brand that I have personally used.
 
So B&M is one I was mulling, but I'm having trouble finding them. Everywhere I look, they're discontinued. It seems the recommendation for B&M seems a bit past due. Holley doesn't seem to make B&M coolers anymore; lots of Earls, though.

The only "place" I've been able to find "stock" is eBay, which isn't very reliable and it's only 1 result -- for a Jeep Wrangler kit, and it's well over $500. Even on principle, it's not worth that much.

A different search did uncover this https://www.jegs.com/i/B-M/130/70298/10002/-1

.. $600+ all said and done? Not worth it. That's insane.
 
Been on a Setrab for many years. Looks like something comparable in the size you linked is more, around $250.

 
I run a koyorad cooler,
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I had a B&M. Long tru cooler. It worked but not aswell as i wanted. I had ducting also but i think a fan may of been helpful. I re did my setup using setrabs. No direct fans but the cooler does better. I seen many work but most do have fans on it
 
I was hoping this wouldn't cost $500 ($300 becomes $450 before the extra taxes), as I still have to owe taxes and need to pay for the balancing & head machining work, radon mitigation, a table, a new fence, and a backyard deck..

holy shit i'm going to be broke by end of summer.
 
I run the extreme psi kit. It was a bundle with the evo3 ofh. It’s a b and m cooler. Works so far. I’ll find out how well it does on track hopefully by next year.
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It would depend for what kind of racing and what oil temp you have now. If the car is mainly for streets or sometimes drag racing, just go the B&M 70273 cooler or equivalent as already mentioned above. That would usually keep the oil temp somewhere between 100~120 degree C unless you do some sort of endurance racing. You don't need one larger. You don't want overcooling the oil.
 
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Street only. I'm likely to not even take it to the "local" strip because I only have this one drivetrain and I don't actually care about the E/T. All I care about is keeping it on the road and representin' DSMs.
Current oil temp, I have no idea.. no sensor. My 1G was watercooled and this one, the cooler may even be from the Evo GVR4 the motor came from.. banjo bolts and all. So the question I've been asking myself is, do I lose the cooler altogether and loop the lines, go with the watercooled setup I had from my last motor, or keep the air cooled setup but replace the cooler (and go AN instead of banjo).

I kind of decided on the last one, but now the reality that's setting in is it's going to cost me $500 for a new cooler (product w/ fittings & hose, exchange rate, taxes, potentially duty) vs $0 to use my '91 watercooled OFH setup.
 
You can get all the fittings and hose you need from Racetronix. They’re in Ontario and have great prices on fittings. Then it’s just a matter of finding a good deal on the cooler itself.
 
Thanks everyone!
I think I get the overall suggestions: Setrab or B&M. Price-wise, I think B&M is more within my budget but either is going to be more costly than I had originally hoped. Last time I looked into this was pre-2020 so now I'm paying that tax. My spare watercooled OFH is looking more tempting given what else I could do to the car with that same $500.
I've not had any experience with Racetronix fittings but damn they are cheap -- especially for a Canadian supplier. At least they appear to have a physical storefront and not just an internet dropshipper. I can send my BIL to knock heads if the fittings are junk since I'm a bit far from their Ontario office LOL.
 
@curt-s Shoot me a PM as I have a new and a used B&M oil cooler that I would part with if interested, and not too far away from you as well.
 
I've bought several fittings from Racetronix and they appear to be nicely made. I can't comment on any leaks because the car isn't running yet, but the metric to -AN adapters fit my OFH very nicely and the others fit together the same.
 
The only thing I would be "concerned" about is that they advertise JIC fittings and use them interchangeably with AN. The 37 degree flare and thread pitch are the same but manufacturing standards differ, with JIC being less "robust" than AN, should they follow each standard to the minimum quality level. However, for our particular applications, it probably doesn't matter, that's why I put concerned in quotes.

In fact, I would bet a small amount of money on it not actually making any difference, but the less exacting tolerances of the JIC/SAE fitting might cause interface issues with its AN counterpart.
 
Yeah, small differences can be a problem sometimes, but given that they're making all their own fittings they should work perfectly fine with each other, at least. I would agree that for our purposes using JIC and AN together is highly unlikely to be an issue. On something like an aircraft it would be far more concerning. Also, if the cooler you use has NPT fittings they make hose ends with NPT threads eliminating the need for adapters and any JIC/AN differences at that connection.
 
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