If the bore of the cylinder is too worn, a rebuild kit won't do anything. That's only useful if the piston seal, spring, etc. is what went on you, which isn't always the case.
A good oem core from a junkyard.. well, shit, I didn't know it was...
Off to B&M performance to get fixed up. They will go through the longblock etc. Not sure if I will have them get it 100% installed or just R&R the engine etc and I'll take it from there.TBD, but they will at least get the longblock dialed in...
Definitely would recommend it. My car is around 859whp. currently i am looking for a shell was in a fender bender last february. The transmission is amazing I love the even gear ratios it whines but not as bad as I thought it would since 5th...
Jon sent me a video showing that the diff housing was not machined square, and that was the reason for Kelvins damage to the cross shaft and spider gears.
Regarding the hub and sliders,For hubs,
I typically see the stock 1990-1992.5 style small synchro hub break/crack around 600ft/lb tq or with excessive abuse at a little lower power levels. The stock 1992.6-1999 style large synchro hub...
It will last as long as your bearings last then. Hub and sliders and bearings are wearable components over time. I know several people that were making very decent power, like 800+AWHP and had 8 years on their PPG dogboxes before needing to...
I was visiting him we go back, just small talk about the company and the work doing with par, if I had more to share I would but I went to talk about parts for my trans and a friend. Nothing informative about the set up. I'm just following...
It will last as long as you take care of it. It is all up to the end user, along with your ability to actually drive, your power levels and your usage of the clutch.
I prefer time attack/trials.The goal is to build a street car that focuses on handling and mid-range power, but that can run 10s in the 1/4 mile and lay down decent numbers on a road course.