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2G Help with choosing camshaft

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Fear

10+ Year Contributor
47
3
Aug 28, 2010
Sweden, Europe
Would like som help with choosing a suitable cam for my build.
I have searched a lot but havent found any up to date camshaft tests /comparisons.

Spec:
2g 4g63 7bolt engine
Evo 9 pistons & rods with arp
Balanced crank with obx crank pulley
lightly ported head, oem evo valves, springs & retainers, 3mm hla, arp head bolts
Evo 3 intake manifold & throttlebody
Custom made t3 exhaust manifold
Racing dynamics Garrett turbo c-wheel 53/75 t-wheel 63/55mm
Emu standalone ems
Vag coils
Chineese fmic
3,5" exhaust

I have a evo3 cam i intended to use until i made a search and realized people benefit from a camchange even with a standard evo3 engine.
The car will be driven on pump gas & on the street only.
The kelford 272 seems to have a great powerband but i dont know if they are to extreme for my build? Also i dont know if the graphs ive seen was with the 10mm lift or the one with 11mm lift. If possible i would like to stay with oem springs & retainers.

Any suggestions or links to up to date cam tests would be greatly appreciated
 
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Your stock springs will limit your choices. If you are serious about a cam change then use the recommended springs or suffer bent valves from the stockers not getting the valves closed fast enough to not contact the pistons. You have choices still but not Kelford 272's or any in that range with out proper valvetrain control. Just keeping you from making a mistake.
 
At, say, 7500 rpm's each piaton is moving up and down ar the rate of 125 times PER SECOND. Those springs are going half that rate, bouncing up and down at 62 1/2 times PER SECOND. Depending on the lift amount and the ramp angle, valve springs do a crazy job of controlling the closing event of valves at that rate. Think of Kelford 272's, 11mm of lift and revving to 9k, add another 12 1/2 times per second that everthing has to be in perfect control in the valvetrain. If not, catastrophy will happen. Just "bigger cams" isn't the whole picture so try to figure a spring set into your cam selection. :thumb:
 
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Thanks for the replys!
Dont get me wrong, if possible i dont want to change the springs and retainers since the head already is mounted but if i need to change them to get the most out of the engine then i will.
 
I would say you understand the importance and will make a wise decision when the time comes! Thanks for listening. :)
 
thanx for the input, yeah that wont be an issue☺
Got any good ideas about a suitable cam and springs?
 
Spidey//
Thanks for the tip.
Got any dyno slip on the 272 and the 264? Also which of deltas 272 was it?

I've been searching some more and realized atleast the kelford 272 is way to much race for this build, i would love to have that long powerband but lower down in the rpms as the engine isnt fully built and be driven on the streets.
I hope to put down around 500whp and rather not rev it more than necessary as long as i still can get a long enough powerband:)
 
Thanks for the additional info!
 
donniekak: the comp 101200 seems like the no:1 choice so far:)
spidey: about the deltas, i read an old cam test performed by keltalon and at that time there was the "delta K272" which were copys of kelfords 272 ground from a billett core and there was the "delta 272" which were stock cams reground to hks272 copys if im not misstaken? do you know if delta still regrinds the stock cams or if they ground from new core? also price for a set?:
1990tsi: do you know if there is a picture of the list somewhere? i dont have excel:/
 
I can post you sceeen shots in a PM so you can compair lifts. It is pretty much smallest to largest but alphabetized by brand. Its my post but I may have to do it on something other than my phone, but I'll get it to you.
 
There is a lot more to choosing a set of cams than lift, duration, and some peak power numbers, especially in a manual car.

For example, I had a set of kelford 272's and a 3586 in a .82 ar back housing. I could make 600hp at almost 9,000 rpms with just 26psi. Sounds good right? Well going to a smaller housing and set of comp 101200's cost me almost 70hp, but the car got faster.

Driveability aside boost came on so late in 2nd that even shifting at 9,500 rpms put me in a rpm range that I was below full boost threshold in 2nd.

The other shifts were better but far from good. Going to the smaller setup only cost me power from 8,000+ rpms, but spooled 700 rpms faster in third, and almost 1500 rpms faster in 2nd. This meant that power came right on after a shift instead of having to wait almost a full second to get back into boost with the bigger setup.

Cars are a group of systems that have to work together. For instance, my big cam/hotside setup would have worked perfect with an auto setup and good converter.
 
Youre absolutely right, the key to my streetcar is driveability and after more research due to the tips and lists of availiable cams ive found that the comp / bc combo you recomended was the best compromise for my liking so i ordered them. You all have been a great help so far, thank you!
 
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